Big Stitch Quilt Binding

How to Do Big Stitch Quilt Binding

Big stitch quilt binding is a fun trend that I have been seeing more and more in the quilting world and it is a great way to add some character to your quilts. Hand sewing my quilt binding with big stitches has quickly become my preferred method. I love the extra special touch that it adds to a quilt, plus it’s relatively quick to do! I have gotten so many compliments on this binding stitch, and just as many questions about how to do it. So, if you’ve been wanting to try big stitch quilt binding, consider trying this unique alternative to machine binding.

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Video Tutorial

What kind of thread do I use for big stitch quilt binding?

The keystone to big stitch quilt binding is to use a thicker thread. I like using DMC Pearl Cotton or WonderFil Perle Cotton in size 8. DMC also makes embroidery floss in sizes 5 (thicker) and 12 (finer), but I find size 8 is just right. The best part is that DMC has over 230 colors to choose from and WonderFil has 200 colors, including variegated colors! Because the big stitch is meant to be a feature of the quilt (rather than being hidden), I would suggest choosing a thread color that will stand out against your binding fabric and coordinate with the rest of the quilt.

Supply List

Perle Cotton Thread #8
Large Sewing Needles (Size 5)
Embroidery Scissors
3 to 4 Binding Clips
Thimble
Optional: Thread Gloss

Big Stitch Binding Kits

The Big Stitch Binding Kit is specially curated for the Quilt Scout who wants to finish their quilts with big stitch binding AND earn their badge! You can shop this kit and other project kits here.

This Big Stitch Binding Kit Includes:

2 Balls of WonderFil Perle Cotton (5g), Size #8, in colors White and Cream (904)
1 Clover Natural Fit Leather Thimble
- Small: Approx. Inner Diameter 9/16″ (14.5 mm)
- Medium: Approx. Inner Diameter 5/8″ (16.0 mm)
- Large: Approx. Inner Diameter 11/16″ (17.5 mm)
DMC Gold Embroidery Needles, 4-Pack, in sizes 1, 3, and 5
4 Clover Wonder Clips, colors vary
1 Pair of 3.5″ Gold-Plated Peacock Embroidery Scissors
1 Big Stitch Binding Badge (embroidered patch + sticker bundle)
5″ x 7″ Cotton Muslin Drawstring Bag for Storage

Step 1: Machine Sew the Binding to the Quilt Top

Start by sewing your quilt binding to the front of your quilt. I like to use 2.25″ binding, but you can use whatever width binding that you prefer. Sew the binding to the quilt by lining up the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the quilt. Using your sewing machine, stitch a 1/4″ seam allowance around the perimeter of your quilt. You can use a walking foot if you have one, but a regular presser foot is perfectly fine. Connect the ends of the binding and make sure to backstitch at the start and finish to keep it in place.

Step 2: Hand Sew the Binding to the Quilt Back

Now we can start handing sewing the binding to the quilt backing!

Thread the Needle + Knot

After threading your needle with a length of thread (I like to start with a wing span, but use whatever length you are comfortable with), knot the end of the thread using either an overhand knot or a quilter’s knot. Clip the end tail of the thread as short as possible, without compromising the knot, to limit the amount of thread that needs to be hidden under the binding.

Don’t forget the thimble!

When starting, I suggest using a thimble on the pointer or middle finger of your dominant hand. Optionally, you can also use a needle puller or some fingertip grips on your pointer finger and thumb on your non-dominate hand. Using a heavier thread requires a little more force when hand stitching, so a thimble is an absolute necessity.

Starting Your First Stitch

To get started, first take note of the row of machine stitching that is attaching your binding to the quilt top. This is an important reference point that we will continue to use.

Using your threaded needle, push the needle through the first layer of binding and all 3 layers of your quilt sandwich, from the top of the quilt to the back of the quilt. Make sure your needle is just outside of that row of stitches. This will help ensure that your first stitch is hidden under the binding.

Next, fold the binding over so the folded edge just covers that row of machine stitching. Now, push the needle through the folded edge of the binding to complete the first stitch and bring the needle and thread on top of the binding fabric. From here, you can begin stitching down the edge of the binding.

Clip In Place

Before I start stitching, the first thing I do is fold a section of the binding over onto the back and hold everything in place with a few Wonder Clips. I only work in a 12″-18″ section at a time. I don’t clip the entire quilt. As I’m stitching, I will simply move the clips down as I work my way around the quilt. Tip: To make this a little easier, press the front seam of the binding flat.

I would suggest adding another clip to the right of that first stitch while you get those first few stitches started. The rest of your clips will be to the left of your needle while you work from right to left (or left to right if you are left-handed).

The Running Stitch

This big stitch binding method uses a running stitch, which is a technique that pushes the needle up and down through the layers of fabric to create segmented stitches with a gap between each stitch.

To do a running stitch through the binding, push the needle down through the layers, just to the left of your first stitch, going through the binding, the backing fabric, and a little bit of the batting, and immediately coming back up through the layers. You’ll then use your thimble to push the needle through.

It’s important to make sure your needle is only going through the top layers and not through to the front of the quilt. You never want your needle to go through the quilt top.

I have found the key to making your stitches look great, is to keep your stitch length and stitch spacing consistent. I like to keep my stitches between ⅛” and ¼” (3 to 4 mm). However, you can do your stitches as short or long as you desire.

Step 3: Stitching the Mitered Corners

When it comes to finishing corners, I love to stitch an ‘X’ over the fold of the binding. To do that, put a stitch over the 45-degree angle fold that is created by the mitered corners. Keep this first stitch in line with the previous row of stitches. When pushing the needle back up, stitch from left to right, so that your needle is coming up above/behind the previous stitch.

Your next stitch will be on the next side of the quilt, after the corner. Continue with your normal running stitch down the next side of the quilt.

NOTE: You may have to alter the length or spacing of the stitches that are approaching the corner to help make sure the first stitch in the ‘X’ comes up at the correct spot.

Step 4: Tying Off the Last Stitch

When you are finished stitching (or if you are running out of thread and need to start a new length of thread), you need to tie off the end of your thread. To do this (and keep it hidden under the binding), on your last stitch down, go through the binding only.

Next, underneath the binding, stitch down and up through the backing to secure the binding down.

Tie a knot in the thread, While tightenint the knot, use your needle to move the knot down so it is flush. Clip the end of the thread short to hide it. If you are starting a new thread, begin the new row of stitches just as you did at the start.